A new install starts with pulling the old door, tracks, and springs as a set - we don't mix a new door onto 25-year-old torsion hardware rated for a different weight. We measure the opening fresh rather than trust the builder spec, since even true openings shift slightly over two decades. Springs get sized to the actual door weight, not a generic chart number, and we set the opener's travel limits and force settings from scratch once the new door is hung; an opener tuned for the old panel will fight a heavier insulated one. For insulated or composite upgrades, we check whether the existing track and header can take the added weight or need swapping, since that's the step people skip when they try to save money on a DIY upgrade. The whole job is done in one visit once we're on site - the planning happens before the drive, not after.